🔗 Share this article Each Cook Should Study At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Secures Fourth on Ranking of London’s Leading Restaurants. Whenever curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning names. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London. A Shocking Recognition The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors totally shocked. “I’m totally astonished,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small place achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list. The Character of Simplicity This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner. A Signature Offering: Tantuni In the end, it is all about the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency. It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside. It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony. Other Than the Basic Tantuni Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”. For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste. Surpassing the Stars Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations. Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price. A Philosophy of Heart The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner. “I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.” This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”. The Story of Hard Work Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son. Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work. “Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects. An Accomplishment for the Culture The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.